We had three nights in Tash Rabat and in truth we didn’t do much! It was great to be back in OTW and in our own bed. We spent time with our travel buddies relaxing and watching the world go by. We were camped by a river with a view of the mountains and enjoyed time with each other chatting, eating, laughing and just taking some time out of travel to appreciate the journey we were on. We were close to a Yurt Camp and one night we all enjoyed a delicious traditional meal thanks to the owners. This was also going to be our last supper together; two of the couples had their own travel plan with a different time scale to us; however Len and Julia decided that they would continue their journey and be our travel buddies for the next three months up until we had transited through Russia. The very next day we said our goodbyes, knowing at some point we could well meet up again on the road. 

Our first stop was to Naryn where we were planning to do some chores which included a food shop, buying diesel, filling up the water tanks and making sure we were fully equipped for a few days away at Song Kul lake. With all the jobs completed we found ourselves a place to stay overnight just off the main road and by a farm. Little did we know when we sat down to a cuppa that we were going to be entertained for the afternoon and evening. We found ourselves camped by a farm whose owner was a World Champion of eagle flying and whose face can be seen on a lot of the tourism leaflets of Kyrgyzstan. We met his three eagles, we met a wolf he was trying to tame, we had a live eagle show and then we were treated to a feast in his family Yurt with all his family. What an awesome start to our travels in Kyrgyzstan. The hospitality from all his family was just amazing and a memory we will cherish. 

With advice from the tourist office we were going to make our way to Song Kul over the Moldu Ashuu Pass and we were not disappointed. The journey took us a lot longer than we planned as we couldn’t resist stopping to take in the beauty of this country at many opportunities! This was yet another country that we really did not know what to expect and less than a week in we were transfixed by its beauty, not only the scenery but the people as well.

When we arrived at Song Kul Lake we parked up in the middle of nowhere surrounded by mountains and with an immense lake in front of us and just cattle, horses and sheep as our neighbours, it was pure bliss and very hard to tear us away from there!

We were heading to Bishkek next, the Toyota needed some work done to it and we needed to look at the paperwork related to our transit through Russia as well as the next steps in our journey. The road took us over Kalmak Ashuu Pass and again we were blown away by the views, with a lot more stops on route just to take in the beauty.

We had a few days in Bishkek and we loved meandering the streets, visiting the historical sites including the famous Osh market. This city had a vibe about it that we really enjoyed and it wasn’t too intense and very easy to get around. We found a local little restaurant that we frequented and as well as delicious food we also enjoyed many conversations with the locals who were intrigued about our journey.

Our next wild camping trip in Kyrgyzstan was going to be on the outskirts of the town of Karakol. Our travel buddies had told us that there was a weekly cattle market just outside the town which was supposed to be the biggest in Central Asia and with Julia, our friend, being an avid animal fan, we had said we would visit this market with them both and see what it was all about. Before finding the market and a camp spot for the night, we found found the perfect restaurant/hostel in the town of Karakol. The owner of the Duet cafe and hostel was great and shared some valuable information as well as helped us with some local knowledge. The cafe also had a weekly show where you could enjoy the local talent celebrating the traditional customs of the area.

To ensure we were at the cattle market early we guessed it would be best to camp outside the market, which we did, about a 100 metres from the entrance! We had set up camp and were playing our daily game of cards when a young lady approached and invited us for a cup of tea with her family. The cuppa turned out to be a feast with the daughter translating for her parents throughout the evening. We had a fabulous evening with so much homemade food and drink, lots of laughter, sharing of stories; yet another evening where the locals of Kyrgyzstan had welcomed us with open arms. 

The night before the cattle market was not quiet! The trucks of cattle, sheep and horses started to arrive through the night! We had said we would visit it at 5am thinking this was the start of the market. As we wandered around it dawned on us that the market had started earlier than 5! It looked like sales had already been made and some farmers were already leaving! It wasn’t what we expected. We could wander freely amongst the animals, and there were a lot of animals! We had an hour meandering and it looked like the sales of animals were done privately, no auctioneer standing tall and shouting prices, it was money passing hands once a good look had been had of the animal in question before a transaction was agreed! It was fascinating and we loved the experience and can now say we have visited one of the biggest cattle markets in the world! 

Our next camping spot was to be by the Karokol National Park. We found the perfect place by a creek with all round stunning scenery. We were now beginning to pride ourselves on the fact we were good hunters for the perfect camp spot. A couple of nights here where chores were accomplished, i.e. clothes washing in the river as well as as our usual daily card game, chatting, laughing, eating, relaxing and enjoying the perfect spot for camping!

Our next challenge was to find another perfect camp spot but this time by the famous Issyk Kul lake, and what a find we had! It was right by the waters edge where we could take a dip, enjoy the all surrounding views, yet again, and enjoy delicious BBQs by the lake surrounded by mountains. A couple of nights here and we were again patting ourselves on the back for another perfect stop off!

We were going to do one more stop off by Issyk Kul lake before heading to our next stop. On route we stopped off at a canyon, Fairytale Canyon or in Russian, Skazka. There is a legend that talks about a beautiful girl and a red dragon who fell in love with her and pursued her and asked her to marry him. She declined and the dragon was so distraught that he cursed the valley and said that when there was a full moon the water in the wells would rise and flood the valley until she changed her mind. The locals covered their wells with a golden lid and there was no flooding until the beautiful girl forgot and the waters rose and flooded the cities. When the dragon woke he saw what had happened and was in shock and turned into stone and the place where he stood became Skazka. It is said that many dragons can be seen in the rock formations. There is also a ridge that looks something like the Great Wall of China! You just can use your imagination and see what you can see! They are not man made but they aren’t fossils either, they are creations carved out by the weather, ice, wind and water. It is a dry valley with no stream, and the rocks vary in colour and we had a fabulous time meandering and exploring before finding heading to our next destination. 

Our next camp spot for a couple of nights was again by the lake where we were surrounded yet again by beauty. In the next field there were a group of men constructing a Yurt for their family which we had great fun watching! And of course there were the spectacular sunsets in the evenings.

Our journey in Kyrgyzstan continued to take us through some spectacular scenery with breathtaking views and many a pinch me moment. We stayed by a stunning creek just outside the Al Archa National Park; we drove the Ashuu Pass at 4,300 metres and camped by rivers near to Kyzyl Oi. We continued to find that perfect place where it was just us four and the stunning backdrop of mountains and rushing streams. Many games of cards were played as well as a BBQ where stories were shared. Travelling with friends was simply adding to our adventure and we were loving it.

We had one more town to visit before we again were heading to the mountains. A quick stop off in Osh before heading to camp just outside Sary Tash. Osh was an admin stop where our Tajikistan visa was applied for and chores like washing could be completed. Two nights and we were ready to head off. Sary Tash is a small town but one that is vital when you are heading into Tajikistan. It’s here that you can buy what is guaranteed to be decent fuel! We stocked up with provisions and diesel and headed off to stay off grid by Lenin Peak. We were camping here for a few nights whilst waiting for our Tajikistan visas. Lenin Peak sits on the Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan border in the Pamir mountains and is 7,134 metres high. It is famous for being the world’s most accessible peak to climb, although it is popular it is still physically demanding and requires some appropriate acclimatization .. not that we were planning to climb it!

We found another idyllic camp spot and everyone could sit outside and marvel at the sun shining on Lenin Peak. We ended up being here longer than planned! Our visas took a lot longer to come through than we had anticipated. We spent the week exploring the area with a few hikes; we met a lot of explorers like us and sat and shared many a story or two; we woke one morning to a new donkey foal having been born through the night; we watched Yaks travel back and for searching for food and water; we enjoyed a typical local meal in a local yurt with old and new friends; we even helped some farmers herd some sheep onto their truck! Even though it was the longest stay in one place so far on our journey, we loved it and were blessed with a view to die for! 

Our journey through Kyrgyzstan had surprised us. We didn’t really know what to expect, but around every corner we were mesmerized by its beauty. But not only did the landscape have us captivated but the people too. We are often asked which was our favourite country to travel in, we always say we can’t choose because each one is special and has qualities we love, but I think Kyrgyzstan could be a close favourite if we had to choose!